Rob's K/35 Project - 4wd Conversion

Page 6 - 

15.  3/3/02

15] Tank for the on-board air is installed just ahead of the first
crossmember. It's actually a "genuine Mack part" rescued from the boneyard
where I used to work - I spent a few years driving the big trucks before
going back to the welding biz. 2" x 3/16" flat bar welded across the top
serves as the main mounting bracket, and a small tab made from the same
material bolts to the crossmember and takes any "shake" out of the tank.



16] Why on-board air in the first place? Well, I like to be heard as well
as seen.......................... More "genuine Mack parts" here. I chose
this location because I didn't want the horns up on the roof and they
wouldn't fit under the hood. Two holes are drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for
mounting bolts and one 7/8" hole is there to clear the air line fitting.



17] From the back side, you can see the two 1/4-20 bolts holding it on as
well as the clearance hole for the air line fitting. The "engineering" for
the horns and air supply is already done, been on my truck since '96 and had
no problems with it.



18] Back to (rear) suspension parts, here's the lower support for the front helper
spring pad. 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle marked out, drilled and cut to match the
shape of the spring pad. It's welded all around to the frame, while the pad
is bolted so it can be replaced if necessary.



19] The rear (rear) helper spring pads are a little higher on the frame, using angle here
would have been a problem due to not enough clearance for the bolt head.
3/8" flat bar was marked, drilled and cut, then welded all around. Again
Grade 8 hardware throughout - the suspension is NOT a good place to "cheap
out" on fasteners!



20] Since I'm using "big truck" tank & horns, I also used "big truck" air line & fittings. The plastic "synflex" line is easy to work with, shown is the line that will go to the compressor. It's secured with the same style clamps used on the brake & fuel lines, and anywhere it might rub against the frame I slipped a piece of corrugated wiring loom over top to protect from chafing.


"If you've seen the article elsewhere on this site about 2wd to 4wd conversion - how doing a body swap onto a 4x4 frame is a lot easier and more practical than adding 4x4 components to a 2wd frame - by now you may be wondering "THIS is supposed to be EASY???"

I should point out here that going the body swap route IS practical and fairly straightforward. My project seems rather involved for a couple of reasons: 1] I am also giving the truck a complete overhaul in the process and 2] I am adding a lot of custom touches to suit the way I like a truck to be such as the double-frame & on board air compressor/tank."


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